Oliver Twist

Oliver Twist (so named due to the distinctive corkscrew twist in his tail) first appeared around Chongwe in 2004 at the guides examinations at Conservation Lower Zambezi. A huge mature bull who calmly walked through all the exam delegates to feed on a tree under which the invigilator (MJ) was sat in the shade. She crouched into a ball looking at his tusks either side of her head, wondering what may happen, but he did not touch a hair on her head. He calmly walked back out again after taking his fill and all breathed a sigh of relief and carried on with their exam papers.

After this he was a very common and most welcome visitor to all camps in the area, at Chongwe, we would all talk to him, welcoming him back and asking how his day was going, he never caused us any problems. Personally, I (CJ) have very happy memories of the fantastic sightings he gave us over the years, carefully removing chairs on the deck to reach a particular tree, swimming in the reeds under the deck, his passing us by whilst eating with guests at dinner, and his “talking” (the typical elephant tummy rumble) to us in the office whilst feeding outside. Supplies delivery days were always a favourite of his, to see if he could beat us to the bananas and oranges. My particular favourite has to be following the felling of a tree leaning on the office when he raced through camp at the sound of the tree falling, screeched to a halt in front of it and promptly started feeding, still as we were cutting it. He amused us by lifting a branch, tucking it under his tusk whilst picking up a second branch and eating it, and then returned to the first one retrieving it from under his tusk to eat, before repeating this double portion over and over.

Late in 2008 he disappeared, never to be seen again around the banks of the Chongwe River. Each year we would wait for his return but he never came, though his name and stories were oft repeated to guests and new staff alike. In September 2011, we received a report that he had been roaming the Zimbabwe side of the Zambezi and was found dead in November 2010 on an island not too far from his old Chongwe home. Believed to be natural causes but confirmed he had not been poached.

We often wondered what had happened to him, fearing the worst and whilst a sad end to our favourite elephant, it is a relief to know he wasn’t betrayed by man. Chris Liebenberg says “in 16 years I never met a nicer chap”.

RIP Ollie – you will be remembered.  by Caroline Jenkins – Reservations Manager

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We first visited Chongwe Safaris in 2007 and we arrived in on the overnight BA flight, so after lunch we flopped into our tent for a much needed sleep.  As I emerged from my groggy, sleepy state, I was aware that Sean was already awake and alert.  I started to stir and he told me to be still and quiet.  I quickly tuned into the exciting scene unfolding directly outside our tent.  A large bull elephant, with a twist in his tail was amusing himself with the sun lounger mattress.  He was curling it up into a ball and throwing it over his head, and then stamping on it, picking it up again and repeating the process.  Each time he was moving further round the tent until he was just the other side of the open air bathroom.  He chucked it again and it landed in the shower.  We held our breath, wondering what he would do next. Suddenly his trunk followed by his ears and head popped over the top of the bathroom wall as he reached into the shower to retrieve his ‘toy’.  We laughed when we wondered how we would have reacted if one of us had been in the shower at the time.  Oliver eventually tired of his game when his mattress landed in the river, he gave it one more cursory glance and wandered off for a munch on a nearby bush.

Oliver put in some wonderful appearances over the course of the few days we were at Chongwe and even had a snooze, trunk resting on the ground, leaning slightly against a termite mound.  He would come right up to the lunch table and gently move around us going about his business.

On our follow up visits to Chongwe, we were delighted to see Oliver again.  Coming out of the back of tent 1 into the bathroom, he was happily stretching to grab the branches that hung high over the tent.  He stopped what he was doing, looked directly at me and we just held a gaze.  It was a wonderful moment of connection and acceptance.  For such a large elephant, Oliver moved very deliberately and softly and has to have been one of the greatest encounters we have ever had with a wild animal.

Jane Keogh – Chongwe House



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A Guest’s Perspective…

Four teenagers, Two weeks, No Wi-Fi, Facebook,Nightclubs or Shopping…

A recipe for disaster? Read on…

We hadn’t been to Africa since a wonderful holiday to Kenya nearly five years ago. So when an idle conversation with family friends turned into a firm plan to visit again I was charged with finding an itinerary that would suit all of us, including new activities for those who’d visited before, as well as a proper, classic safari for the first timers.

After a bit of head scratching Zambia and Malawi got the nod: Zambia for the wealth of safari activities on offer, and Lake Malawi for its reputation as a wonderful spot for post-safari relaxation.

We started in Livingstone, an area well known for adrenaline fuelled pursuits, and we seemed to have been there just five minutes before our lot were hurling themselves off a bridge, headlong into the Zambezi Gorge, attached only to spindly pieces of elastic. They loved it, can’t say I particularly enjoyed watching but it was certainly an exhilarating start. Pictures of the Victoria Falls do nothing to prepare you for the real thing – they are quite magnificent, and the spray, even when the water levels are fairlylow, is something to be believed. We got totally drenched. A sunset river cruise and island picnic lunch organized by Tongabezi, where we stayed for the two nights, was just a taster of what was to come.

Next stop was the Lower Zambezi National Park – an area I’ve wanted to see for a long time having heard others in the office wax lyrical about its abundant wildlife and beautiful setting. I’d plumped for Chongwe River House here, a stunning property which looks like something Fred Flintstone might have built. I’ve been fortunate to see a fair few wonderful African camps but this place is really breathtaking. On arrival you look right through the house, to the pool and garden and straight down to the Chongwe River beyond. For once that teenage expression of ‘totally awesome’ is truly accurate.

What Zambia offers over and above some other safari countries is a vast range of activities. Yes, there are great game drives, but you can also night drive and walk, and in the Lower Zambezi spend time exploring on the river too. We canoed a lovely channel off the Zambezi River. The two oldest had their own canoe and scared themselves witless when they thought they’d spotted a hippo close to their craft. Since we were in water only a foot or so deep, their imagination had got the better of them but it kept them alert (and obedient) the whole trip. Watching families of elephant ambling across the river in front of us was magical. Despite being out of season we managed to catch a few tiger fish, even the small ones look pretty ferocious. A 30kg vundu (a type of catfish) was hooked amid much excitement but managed to make its escape before it could be brought to the boat. After surprise bush suppers, an amazing lunch on a sand spit in the middle of the Zambezi – watching the chef clear the tiny island of a group of basking hippo was certainly a novelty – I was a bit concerned that we’d peaked only half way…

By Charlotte Opperman – family holiday August 2011

Charlotte and family finished their trip to Zambia in the South Luangwa and then headed to Malawi.

 

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In the Name of Sport?

I suppose it is only fair to put in the bad with all the good on our social network sites. In the 17 years I have operated in the Lower Zambezi I have seldom felt so disheartened and that is saying something in tourism and conservation in Africa. We started Tsika Island Camp 2 years ago as a community partnership project /canoeing camp to save a beautiful Island and especially the one particular elephant bull and his dozen or so cohorts while doing some good. Well on the 15th of this month he made the fatal mistake of straying a few hundred yards off the island to eat some fragmites reeds that had freshly grown out of a sand bar. The local hunting company happened to be boating past with someone on board who wanted to shoot an elephant – for fun. I have never had the misfortune of meeting such a creature but needless to say they shot him three times, while he was standing on a sandbar surrounded by water – no were to run. They must be so brave and so proud. Our group of camps generates around $100’000 for ZAWA in revenues and we still have to contribute a further $25’000 directly to Conservation Lower Zambezi to keep law enforcement and anti poaching,  going despite the revenues we generate. We do all of this so a hunting company can then shoot the biggest, best looking and most gentle of elephants. I am sure I am missing something.

I am no hunter and don’t know how to measure the weight of an elephants tusks and frankly could give a shit what they weigh now I think about it. All I know he had the biggest ivory of any elephant that we see these days in our area and he is gone, not to poachers, but to a foreign hunter and this is the name of sport? Not sure what I have been doing all this time and not sure what to do anymore?

Christiaan Liebenberg     -  Managing Director

Oliver – another gentle elephant who hasn’t been seen for a couple of years – who knows what his fate was.

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Spots & Trunks

There has been plenty of activity over the last week or so and guests have been lucky enough to enjoy numerous leopard sightings.  One is the female with cubs, although she is still keeping the cubs hidden but we have seen evidence of them via their spoor.  The female was spotted two nights in a row in between the kitchen and house.  She was sniffing the air appreciatively which made us wonder if she could smell dinner being prepared.  She was then spotted with a baboon kill up a tree near a site we normally use for a bush dinner – we were rather hoping she’d killed a baboon who has been giving us problems, but that would have been too easy. Unwilling to frighten her away from her kill we choose another venue for dinner.

The next morning a large male leopard killed a male impala near the watering hole between camp and house, and dragged it into the thicket nearby.  He is rather skittish and retreated further into the bushes.  It’s widely believed that he is the father of the two cubs.

Elephant activity has also been plentiful with some magical moments and very close interaction.  Guests were sat on the deck when a large male decided to wander up the steps onto the terrace to sample a delicious looking tree – the winterthorn pods are ripe and a favourite for the elephants.  It is quite incredible how such huge creatures can gently pick their way around furniture, walls, decks and steps to get to their favourite bar snack!

There are literally hundreds of elephants around at the moment – often wandering through the different properties, using the sprinkler systems, the ponds, water holes and river to their full advantage.  Elephants communicate through a low deep rumbling – it can be very loud or barely audible but they can hear it for miles away.  We are very fortunate to have some incredibly special moments with these majestic wild animals and whilst some can appear very mellow it’s advisable to keep reminding ourselves and our guests that they are unpredictable.

From time to time a very grumpy elephant or two, pass through,  protesting loudly at anything that moves and charging without any warning.

We have had some rare sightings in the last week, pel’s fishing owl, bush pigs and samongo monkey’s.

The hippo that died up stream weeks ago if finally being feasted upon by the crocodiles – they have waited very patiently for the tough hide to soften (by rotting). The feeding frenzy is violent but spectacular and good entertainment for strong stomached guests.

Early the other morning what appeared on the surface to be a panicked hippo hit the water,was in fact a crocodile kill.  An unsuspecting bush buck was plucked from the river bank and probably never knew what hit it.  The splashing was monumentous & dramatic, after a short while the croc submerged and the water was still, UNTIL, after approximately 30 mins, the croc reared out of the water, and crashed sideways into a death roll. It’s large tail hitting the water with a force that would have stunned anything that dared get in the way.

The kudu around the game management area are relatively relaxed and don’t bolt off into the bushes so we have had some lovely sightings close up.  These two were spotted courting.  She was coy and feigning disinterest as she nibbled the bushes, tail slightly raised.  He was distracted and not at all interested in eating and kept on giving her gentle nudges.  She carried on ignoring him but continued to let him fuss over her.  A fairly large mixed group are often seen around the camps – it is quite rare to see them so relaxed and they are wonderful to watch, despite being a little skittish.

Back to leopards and we were stunned the other night when there was a commotion outside house – we went to investigate and it looked like an impala was fighting with another, on second glance the impala was stood up seemingly on top of another animal.  What we then realised, was that there was a male leopard attached to the impalas throat from the underneath. Seconds later the impala was flat out and the leopard patiently hung on until the impala died. It was swift, clean and relatively quick.  We were speechless with the closeness of the whole kill, heart rates raised and adrenaline pumping through our bodies.  The leopard then dragged the kill a little distance away under a tree.  The next morning, with new guests arriving we decided to move the kill a safe distance away – we didn’t want to scare the leopard off and we didn’t want to put our guests in danger.  We had a few days of exciting viewings, especially as the female came across the kill and decided to share it.  This presented no problem initially until the male returned and became very possessive about his prize and a mighty row erupted.  Snarls, grows and spits were heard whilst guests enjoyed dinner on the deck, all the more thrilling with leopards fighting nearby, The next morning the kill had disappeared – it is believed that the male moved the kill for his own consumption.

And as well as these superb viewings guests saw the large pride of lions in the National Park, porcupine, buffalo, hundreds of elephants with babies, hippos, huge crocodiles, elephant shrew, leopard tortoise, lion ants, fish eagles, bee eaters, ground hornbills, warthog, baboons, vervet monkeys and so much more.

 

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Marinated Lamp Chops

At the request of our last guests we are posting this recipe that results in very tender, delicious lamb chops.  The chops can be replaced by any other cut of lamb.

Serves 8

2 chops per person (depending on size of appetite)

2 tbsps of mint sauce

2 tbsps of lemon juice

2 tbsps of olive oil

2 tsps of fresh ginger

2 cloves of garlic finely chopped

 

Mix all ingredients together and place lamb in mixture overnight or for 3 to 4 hours.  Place in a medium oven covered in tin foil for one hour and then remove foil and cook for a further 15 mins.

Serve with mixed green salad, &  roasted vegetable with tomato couscous, and carmelised foccacia bread – recipes to follow.

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A Picture Speaks a Thousand Words

We were lucky enough to encounter this very relaxed herd of elephants with this little one amongst them.  They allowed us to sit and watch them interact and came very close to us.  Often breeding herds are skittish and a little nervy and the little ones are mainly kept surrounded, and secure in the midst of the herd.  This little on was still a little wobbly and over excited, and was literally trying to run before it could walk which is why we got this shot on it’s knees!  Great fun to watch.

The mighty Zambezi River is usually fast flowing and furious, and on this afternoon, the water was still like sheet glass, reflecting the clouds perfectly.  The river appears to take on multiple personalities – it is very beautful in a unique way depending on the time of day. 

These red basker dragonflies – kibes drop wing, were around in abundance when the flood gates were opened at Lake Kariba.  Due to the water levels bugs were plentiful.  They are so vibrant in colour and this one reflects it’s shadow perfectly on the pool side.

We’d gone to investigate the state of a dying or dead hippo up near top crossing when we heard that there were some lionesses with cubs near the airstrip – so we went in search and came across to lionesses with four cubs.  They were resting after feasting on a kudu and the little ones were a little unsure.  This little guy attempted to scare us with a noiseless open mouth snarl and then settled into a comfy postion to keep an eye on us!

This is a new spot for a bush dinner.  The fallen stump is beautiful and is the perfect drop back for the table.  We light a fire for guests and a fire for cooking and sit under the stars to enjoy an al fresco dinner. 

Sunrises and sunsets are stunning throughout the year and worth getting up early for! 

This sunrise lastest minutes at the most and the sun then disappeared into the clouds until later on in the day.

Sunset is rapid has different stages of colours even after the sun has disappeared behind the mountains.

The bee-eaters whilst out feeding during the day, congregate in the late afternoon over the water, catching the insects.  They seem to work together to ensure plentiful snacks are eaten.

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Continuous Improvements

As you would imagine maintenance is a big part of giving guests a great experience.  It is a constant and ongoing progress and this year we have seen significant changes to all camps.

At Kasaka, Hippo Pod, is a two bed room suite, located away from the main camp, overlooking the Zambezi River.  It is perfect for complete privacy and meals are usually served separately, unless HP guests ask to join main camp. This year we have built a new pool in front of the suite to complete it.

At Chongwe River Camp, all the tents have been rebuilt.  They used to stand on a flat base which has now been raised to give more light, room and air.  And of course then there are the finishing touches, new billowy curtains to give the tents a warm, homely feeling.

The outside bathrooms have now been partly covered, although the shower remains in the open air – there is nothing quite like a warm shower (or cold depending on the season), directly under the star studded night.  Where possible and to fit with our bush surroundings, finishing touches using natural materials complete the major improvements to bathroom fixtures.

A guest recently shared with us that she felt Chongwe Safaris have soul – which sums it up perfectly.

Watering holes have been dug to entice leopards and to encourage elephants to drink there, rather than from the swimming pools. Can be rather disarming for guests when an elephant approaches!

Staff wise, we have welcomed new guides, a new executive chef, and new managers.

Yvonne Price and Mwaka are the new general managers at Kasaka.  Yvonne was assistant manager last year, and Mwaka was host at Chongwe River Camp.

Janie & Sean Keogh are the new general managers at Chongwe House.  Previously guests of Chongwe Safaris, they loved it so much they decided to join the team. 

Chris Chitsa has joined as head guide and Dion Andersen as executive chef across all three (four with Tsika Island) properties.  We will be sharing guest favourite recipes in future posts.

We are always delighted to welcome back returning guests, and so far this season we have welcomed the Irwins, the Ryans, the Birds, the Murrays. 

Sightings in the last week have included the large pride of 14 lions with another kill, this time a waterbuck.  A leopard and an adolescent cub, and another  leopard, a large male relaxing in the warm sand on the road.  It is winter and the animals will keep warm whatever it takes!  The greater bush baby has been spotted before disappearing up the tree out of sight.  One guide and guests were lucky enough to see not just one but two aardvark in one evening.  Seen regularly between camp and house is a porcupine, a genet, a very relaxed male waterbuck and a family of fairly relaxed kudu.  And then there are the elephants – some very easy with us and others not so.  Slash is about and grumpy as ever, easily recognised by a slash in his ear.  Our guys arrived early to work, the reason? Slash was chasing them.  Majestic is around and as his name suggests majestic in nature.  Oliver has not been seen for a while now – who knows what became of him?

Our aim is to help guests have an amazing experience, and to take home memories that will last for a life time, or at least until they return for another visit!

Our aim is to help guests have an amazing experience, and to take home memories that will last for a life time, or at least until they return for another visit!

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Bush Life

Chongwe Safaris include Chongwe River Camp, Kasaka River Camp, Chongwe River House and Tsika Island.  This blog will be a collection of daily experiences of life in the Zambian bush.

The 2011 season is now well underway.  As previously mentioned, June has been warmer than normal but the bush vegetation has died down making sightings easier.

One of the female leopards has given birth to cubs – we think two but still to be confirmed.  Cubs are moved about frequently in the early weeks to keep them safe from predators.  One of our guides, Nobby was very fortunate to come across a very handsome male leopard who frequents the area early one morning – unfortunately our guests were all still tucked up in bed so missed the sighting.

Elephants are regular ‘guests’ and as you can see take advantage of the sprinklers.

On an early morning game drive guests came across the big pride in the park – they were relaxing in the sun, the male still polishing off the remains of the buffalo.  Two of the females became very alert which piqued the interest of the cubs (see photo above).  The unfortunate warthog chased by the lionesses ran head on into the rest of the pride.  The kill was particularly upsetting as the warthog was not killed straight out and vocalised it’s distress noisily until the male lion finally ended it’s suffering. 

Just as heart rates returned to normal a battle commenced in the skies above between a vulture and a bateleur eagle! Not an every day occurence but life in the bush is unpredicatable and anything is possible.

Some recent guests were lucky enough to see the pride of 14 twice and they also came across a leopard with her cub who was around 4 months old.  We know that there are also lion cubs near bush buck area along the Chongwe River.  They are quite young still so very skittish.

Then there are those occasions when you feel you are being watched – at a bush braai dinner, a large male hyena concealed himself patiently whilst guests enjoyed the feast.  Ever hopeful that there would be something tasty left over, he was left disappointed when not a scrap was left.

Day time bush meals are sometimes (river levels allowing) held on a sandback on the Zambezi River.

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Winter is Here!

This gallery contains 4 photos.

Winter has been threatening to arrive on and off for a few weeks now and this morning there was a slight mist on the Chongwe River.  Winter has been slow to start this year, with this June being quite a … Continue reading

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